Amy Sacco's stab at food may not feel like VIP, but Bette's bite-size portions remind you this is a dining room where food isn't the main attraction. New York's Hal Rubenstein wrapped up his dining experience with a review of the nightclub queen's foodie efforts — and reveals what the press releases won't.

Sacco lives directly above the place, in London Terrace Towers, so she’s determined to make it feel more like a neighborhood restaurant than a white-hot scenesters’ hangout. While it’s naïve to assume anything Sacco does can stay local, she has established an all–Zip Codes–welcome comfort zone.

Well, except for the 13301s thru 10314s, but you'll be able to hear them before you see them. This is SaccoWorld™, after all.