Last week we mentioned how excited we were for the weirdness that was David Chang's newest Momofuku: The Milk Bar/Bakery Shop. Because whoa, who wouldn't want pork belly hoisin buns, or grapefruit ice-cream topped with fizzy cola cherries?
But now the enthusiasm for the bizarrely droogish food stuff has died down, thanks in part to Frank Bruni's zero-star review of Kurve, the Second Avenue space-age dim sum place, that "looks like a nail salon on Venus." (Earth Girls are Easy reference, perhaps?)
And though the food wasn't great, it was the wait service that really got the brunt of Bruni's ire. Don't these kids know who he is?
Our waitress one night had apparently been told by management that the single thought to keep in mind — the single syllable — was glum. I wasn’t sure whether to give her a tip or a Zoloft.
When asked which of 23 dim sum options shouldn’t be missed, she said, “The dumplings,†thus narrowing those options to 15. When asked which wines Kurve served by the glass, she said, “Red and white.â€
To be fair, your waitress is probably just glum because she lost her executive editor position at a major magazine last week, Bruni. Ease up.
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Frank Bruni is non confused, he is drunk…which I suppose makes him confused. On two seperate occasions, I have seen the man knock back two martinis at the bar before sitting down for dinner and promptly ordering another drink (the two at the bar on a seperate tab). It is with this wrecked palate and impaired judgement that he sits upon his culinary throne and tells us where and what to eat . He has never worked in a restaurant in any capacity and has no formal culinary training. He is a decent writer with a modicum of wit and is fortunate to have many accomplished friends. He is a phony and a fop and I can't wait for the day when he and his ilk are made irrelevant by every-day food bloggers like you and I.