Da Silvano is, by now, a New York staple of sorts. A place where celebs, socialites, media elites, and restaurateurs meet for dinner before hitting Dowtown Cipriani's for cocktails. Yet, none of that means a thing to New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni. Tom Hanks, Danny DeVito, and Madonna have all sung the restaurant's praises — but Bruni is standing his ground, knocking the famed eatery down from Ruth Reichl's assignment of two stars to a measly one.

“Bravo!” proclaimed Mr. Hanks. (His exclamation point, not mine.) “Bellissimo!” raved Mr. DeVito. (Again, his exclamation point.) Madonna, in a less exclamatory mood, said, “Yummy yummy.” She’s always been such an eloquent lyricist.

Celebrities love Da Silvano. Many regular folks love Da Silvano. Even some self-regarding gastronomes whose opinions I respect love Da Silvano, and I have to wonder if any of them has had anything like the chicken liver crostini I sampled on the first of several recent visits. They tasted like pet food — or, rather, how I imagine it would taste.

Pet food? Ouch. Luky for Da Silvano, they've given Sarah Jessica Parker a shit ton of free meals.

Sarah Jessica Parker, who once scribbled her “love” of the food, stood by that statement, saying in an e-mail message that she used to go there weekly and order artichokes, linguine with clams (“never grew bored” of it, she said) and whatever pasta was being served with seasonal truffles.

So Bruni went back, tried her suggestion, and thought it was lovely. And the waiter didn't even call him disgusting that time. Still, even SJP can't sway the Bruni — the one lonely star stays. Among the likes of Tom Hanks and Madonna, but still.

To Be Seen, and Perhaps to Eat [Frank Bruni, New York Times]