Beatrice Inn staple, Maxim editor-at-large and former BlackBook editor-in-chief Steve Garbarino has eaten, a few times, at Graydon Carter's Wavery Inn. He likes it quite a bit, as do the gaggle of somebodies who are photographed by the paparazzi as they enter and exit the rabbit hole. But aside from being an opportunity to be splashed across the gossip blogs, the pleasure center is a place to eat. And the food — snaps to the clam chowder — is delivered by chef John DeLucie. It is he who must satiate the palates of celebrities, editors, and Hollywood execs, and he who Mr. Garbarino plugs in exchange for his reservation there. So, does DeLucie care that his clientele is half made up of assholes, and half made up of asshole wannabes?

"For some reason I have always found myself cooking for New York City’s cognoscenti, although not on the scale of The Waverly," he says." "It’s a career path, I guess. And the truth is, here, I have found that the boldest face names have been the most gracious and the least persnickety." Mostly because they're posers, wouldn't know to complain whether you added the proper amount of truffles to the mac and cheese, and are just happy to be part of another exclusive enclave.