Even the Waverly Inn, Graydon Carter's restaurant, is falling on hard times: They can't even afford the phone! Kidding, kidding. It's part of the Wavery's insidery charm to not have a public phone number, because it is above mere mortal dining establishments. And eateries that are technically not open needn't keep a landline. Like destitute New Yorkers.

But when people have started tightening their belt at an establishment that serves fifty-five dollar mac and cheese, it portends doom for all of New York's glitter-and-shitter-ati.

Graydon's managing parnter of the Waverly staff, Emil Varda: “Instead of paying $4,000 for a bottle of wine, people are paying $500.” Oh no-ers, what's next? Is Graydon going to have to downsize his waitstaff that are doing such a good job at not being too attentive to celebrities? Will Carter have to skimp on buying the paparazzi photos taken at his own establishment?

If nothing else, the Times treatment — newspeg: Carter is buying a new venue, Midtown's Monkey Bar — does buoy one good side of Carter: He is nothing if not attentive to the needs of the neighborhood.

The biggest complaint from residents? "In the beginning the limos (were) double-parked and idling, but that the security firm the restaurant hired has greatly improved that situation." Whew!

And Carter also instructs his staff to freeze the restaurant's trash overnight so it can be picked up at a more sanitary hour than 2am. It's just one more way the Vanity Fair editor is celebrating New York.